Heads up – 7up!

Finally got to replace the burned off driver in one of my 7up lights. Made a good looking wire harness with a small shrink wrapped push-button and stuck the whole thing to my helmet.

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No more gaffa tape to hold the modified MR16 bulb from DX like I have been used to! It looked terrible anyway….

MR16 bulb

I used one of these big fat silicone rubber bands to fix the light on top of the helmet. It provided a good tight fit but I don’t hope the rather sharp edges on the handlebar mounting bracket will prove too much for the budget rubber band…

They’re around $2 on DX so buy a whole bunch while you’re at it anyway.

Tomorrow morning we’ll see how well it performs in general traffic. I’ll probably blind the occasional driver.

2013-11-18 23.34.49Only one thing to do now – clean up all the mess in the kitchen and get straight to bed!

See ya!

Final assembly of multiple 7’up lights

One long night of cutting, glueing, soldering and – unfortunately – burning off expensive electronic hardware resulted in two finished lights.

One with an ordinary panel mount 12mm push button and the other with a micro switch hidden in a small length of shrink wrap. The latter will probably be the easiest to fix to the handlebars.

It doesn’t take long to create quite a mess on the dining table and I’m astounded every time by the time consumed to do even these trivial little tasks.

The work table full of bits

There are two more lights in the pipeline. One has the driver thermally bonded in place whereas the other – well that one needs a new driver due to last night’s unfortunate mishap.

Game on!

Be careful when handling poorly isolated wires…..

Fuck fuck fuck!!! Tonight when I was fixing the 7’up light to my handlebar one of the exposed soldering pads on the control switch just touched the positive connector coming from the battery.

A brief flash of light and that was that. Say good bye to at least $50 of hardware, hours of glueing, soldering and assembly. Now I have to order a new MaxFlex from Taskled. That will be at least a couple of weeks of waiting – provided that they are in stock and Danish Customs don’t snatch them at the airport…..

Note to self: Be very careful when using heat shrink. Be sure to cover EVERY FUCKING MILLIMETRE of exposed copper wire!!!

Lesson learned the hard, stupid and expensive way ūüôĀ

LED PCB modifications

The design of the 7’UP lamp necessitates routing the wires from the driver to the LED’s through holes in the bulkhead and the LED PCB. By using the bulkhead as a template the holes were marked with a felt tip¬†pen. I did a Delrin fixture to hold the LED PCB in place while drilling. This also protected the LED domes, which are made from silicone and are quite fragile.
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Holes marked with blue felt tip pen

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Drilling away from the back side

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Removing burrs by finalising the drilling from the front.

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The finished LED PCB ready to mount on the bulkhead and driver assembly

New custom components ready

I’ve been playing around with the lathe at the job and came up with these little babies:
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The tool necessary for holding the work pieces in place was made from a length of Delrin and two 33x3mm o-rings. It held the acryl pieces in place like a charm:
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I just did a whole stack of lenses so there’s enough for everybody involved.
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Ikea Hacks by Andreas Bhend

When creating new products it is often easyer to start with something you know and/or in this case some easy accessible. For many hackers Ikea has become a good starting place, as there products are relative cheep and if your hack turns out bad, you have not lost much.

Switz Industrial Design Student Andreas Bbend has here made some cool Ikea hacks and a stop-motion showing the transformation from mainstream to special. 

Horto domi: the Open Garden

As spring is coming and the weather is getting warmer, Will Bratton and Samuel Bagot from Texas are seeking founding via Kickstarter to this awsome open hardware project.

They have designed a half sphere green house with a controlled environment. Via a web interface moister and temperatures levels can be monitored and setting can changed. The controls are base on the Arduino open hardware platform and used a Ethernet shield to create connection to a web interface. This will allow a broader development community to create modification, such as automated opening of vents for natural ventilation.

Read more about the project and back it on Kickstarter

Hvad sker der i hall sensoren?

Den m√łrke tid er kommet med overraskende hastighed. Det tid til at komme i gang igen efter en lang sommerpause.

Sidst havde jeg en masse uforklarlige hendelser n√•r jeg pr√łvede at programmere vores LED driver. F√łrste¬†troede¬†jeg der var l√łse forbindelser og d√•rlig¬†lodninger. For at analyser percist hvad der skete n√•r der blev trykket p√• hall sensoren, har haft et ocyloskob koplet til hall sensoren. Med¬†oscilloskopet¬†har jeg s√• kunne m√•le om hall sensoren trak signalet “lav” n√•r magneten blev trykket ned.

Programmering af setting forg√•r ved en kombination af korte klik (<0,3s) og lange tryk (>0,3s). Jeg har haft en¬†bekymring¬†at bev√¶gelse at vores tryk knap tog l√¶nger tid end 0,3s og det der skulle v√¶re korte klik blev til lange tryk og det var det der¬†drillede n√•r jeg pr√łve at programmer driveren

I videoen giver jeg f√łrst 10 kort klik. De er alle ca. 0,2s, minder end de 0,3s, s√• det er ikke korte klik der bliver til lang tryk.

For at komme ind i settings skal man give 3 korte klik og 1 langt tryk. De 3 klik g√•r fint, men i det lange tryk kommer der to afbrydelser hvor hall sensor signalet g√•r “h√łjt”. Det skal det ikke! Afbrydelsen svar til at der kommer et ekstra klik hvilket betyder at driveren g√•r i¬†programmerings¬†menuen eller helt ud af settings menuen.

Er der nogen, med elektronik kendskab, der kan forklare hvorfor den g√łr som den g√łr?