Heads up – 7up!

Finally got to replace the burned off driver in one of my 7up lights. Made a good looking wire harness with a small shrink wrapped push-button and stuck the whole thing to my helmet.

2013-11-18 23.33.31

No more gaffa tape to hold the modified MR16 bulb from DX like I have been used to! It looked terrible anyway….

MR16 bulb

I used one of these big fat silicone rubber bands to fix the light on top of the helmet. It provided a good tight fit but I don’t hope the rather sharp edges on the handlebar mounting bracket will prove too much for the budget rubber band…

They’re around $2 on DX so buy a whole bunch while you’re at it anyway.

Tomorrow morning we’ll see how well it performs in general traffic. I’ll probably blind the occasional driver.

2013-11-18 23.34.49Only one thing to do now – clean up all the mess in the kitchen and get straight to bed!

See ya!

Final assembly of multiple 7’up lights

One long night of cutting, glueing, soldering and – unfortunately – burning off expensive electronic hardware resulted in two finished lights.

One with an ordinary panel mount 12mm push button and the other with a micro switch hidden in a small length of shrink wrap. The latter will probably be the easiest to fix to the handlebars.

It doesn’t take long to create quite a mess on the dining table and I’m astounded every time by the time consumed to do even these trivial little tasks.

The work table full of bits

There are two more lights in the pipeline. One has the driver thermally bonded in place whereas the other – well that one needs a new driver due to last night’s unfortunate mishap.

Game on!

Be careful when handling poorly isolated wires…..

Fuck fuck fuck!!! Tonight when I was fixing the 7’up light to my handlebar one of the exposed soldering pads on the control switch just touched the positive connector coming from the battery.

A brief flash of light and that was that. Say good bye to at least $50 of hardware, hours of glueing, soldering and assembly. Now I have to order a new MaxFlex from Taskled. That will be at least a couple of weeks of waiting – provided that they are in stock and Danish Customs don’t snatch them at the airport…..

Note to self: Be very careful when using heat shrink. Be sure to cover EVERY FUCKING MILLIMETRE of exposed copper wire!!!

Lesson learned the hard, stupid and expensive way ūüôĀ

Evil eyes – a CAD rendering of a twin P60 drop-in lamp

Using a milling machine with a 4, 6, 16, 24 and a 26,5 mm mill this design is a possibility.

It is made from two pieces of aluminium each 60 by 35 mm, two P60 drop-ins from Kaidomain, lenses and o-rings from Dealextreme and a 12 mm switch. The XM-L LEDs on 20 mm stars are mounted directly on the finned rear section, thus giving the best heat transfer possible. The main body could be finned also.

O-rings between housing and lenses provide sealing at the front. Between the two parts of the housing I’ll use liquid gasket.

Below is an animated assembly.

Lamp-explode

The drop-ins are $9,21 a piece including LED and LDO regulator. The lenses and o-rings are less than $1. Get your hands on some scrap aluminium, and you’re looking at a pretty cheap 1800 lumen lamp. For added power – just scale this thing to have more drop-ins….

Have fun!

Indkogning af Spaghetti

I mit forrige indl√¶g, “lys i lygten” var driver elektronikken stadig uden for lygtehuset. Hall sensoren var forbundet med lange ledninger og det lignede mest af alt en stor gryde spaghetti. Det er nu blevet reduceret til en meget elegant l√łsning hvor hall sensoren sidder med to ben i driver printet og med en lus p√• tredje ben over til microprocessoren, hvor den glad tapper lidt str√łm. Driveren er klistret fast til mellempladen med LED’er og linse.
Hall sensor mounted on driver with LED and lens
Denne under-samling er blevet monteret i lygtehuset. Det virker ganske fint bare man vender magneten i den lille vippekontakt rigtigt.

Der er dog stadig et par udfordringer, bl.a. er den lille vippekontakt ikke helt robust nok endnu. Lygten i videoen er monteret med palen med gr√¶shoppel√•ret. Den har en udm√¶rket f√łlelse, men er lidt for lille og har for lille vandring n√•r man har vanter p√•. Jeg har slebet lidt af tykkelsen af omkring ledet for at give lidt mere fleksibilitet og udj√¶vne sp√¶ndingerne, men der skal g√łres mere for at styrken er i orden.
Pal med græshoppelår

Indpakning

En af december m√•neds helt store discipliner er indpakning. Vores LED og effektelektronik skal ogs√• gennem dette for at kunne pr√¶senteres som en f√¶rdig lygte, der kan modst√• vand, t√¶sk og hvad den ellers vil opleve p√• vej gennem en m√łrk og v√•d skov. Udover den elektronik der tidligere er vist en del billeder af her p√• blog’en, er der brug for en knap (ringetryk) til at t√¶nde og slukke, skifte mellem de forskellige lys intensiteter og programmere driver settings (temperatur gr√¶nser, batteri overv√•gning, antal og styrke p√• lys niveauer, bike mode, og, og, og). Det sidste kr√¶ver n√¶rmest en uddanneles som morse telegrafist. Hele manualen kan l√¶ses her: MaxFlex Manual

Jeg vil bruge min lygte til mountainbike i skoven og o-l√łb. Det betyder at jeg vil lave en indpakning der har samme gr√¶nseflade til et cykelstyr som til et pandeb√•nd, eller hjelmbeslag, f.eks. det her fra DealExtream.com.

Om det lille beslag under lygten har jeg tænk at der spændes en kraftig o-ring, der henholds vis holder lygten fast til styret, hjelmen eller pandebåndet.

Bagerst er placeret en trykknap, som dog pt. er min back-up l√łsning. Den ideelle l√łsning jeg¬†forstiller¬†mig er baseret p√• en hall sensor og en magnet. Det betyder at der ingen dynamiske t√¶tninger er fra ydersiden og ind, hvilket giver en meget mere robust l√łsning i forhold til fugt. Dette vil ikke mindst v√¶re meget anderledes og innovativt i forhold til andre lygter p√• markedet. Der hvor trykknappen pt. er skitseret, t√¶nkes gennemf√łring for ledningen til en eksterne batteri pakke (mere om den senere). Det gode ved hall sensor l√łsningen er at jeg uden videre kan skifte til trykknaps l√łsningen, jeg skal “bare” finde en ny placering til lednings gennemf√łringen. Hvis det ikke lykkes er der altid muligheden for en ekstern trykknap der enten kan strip’ses til styret eller pande b√•ndet.

Nu er der intet der kan g√• galt ūüôā